Eyebrows are probably the feature that stands out the most when you get it wrong. The rest of your makeup could be flawless, but bad eyebrows will ruin your whole look. Eyebrows should frame your face. A good arch can take ten years off your brow-bone, by giving the effect of a lift.
To get a perfect, natural brow, I love to use an angled brush, like the straight 262 brush from makeup forever. Brows should be no darker than 2 shades from your hair colour. I like to use a powder like the benefit brow zings (comes with a waxy base too) or Anastasia brow powder duo. Brush the powder on, starting lightly and building it up! Make sure the beginning of your brow isn’t too blocky or you run the risk of looking angry all day. Highlight directly under the brow, on the brow bone, to sharpen your brows further.
The best way to know your shape is this age old q-tip trick.
• Take a Q-tip, your brows should start when the q-tip is in-line with the base corner of your nose.
• Keeping the q-tip at the base and looking straight ahead, take it diagonally across your pupil. This is where the highest part of the brow should be.
• Move the Q-tip so it’s in-line with the outer corner of your eye, this is where you brow should end.
Best brow products
• Benefit brow zing
• Anastasia brow powder duo and dipbrow
• Makeup forever aqua brow
• Rimmel professional eyebrow pencil
• Makeup forever 262 brush
• MAC 208 angled brow brush
Getting the right base is so important. It’s easy to go too orange, or the opposite, too ashy! This is mostly down to the undertone of your skin. Most people will see a shade that looks like their skin tone, but it’s the wrong under-tone (confusing, I know!). To make it a bit clearer, the skin has it’s tone or shade, which is made up of light, medium, dark ect, and then it’s undertone is either pink, yellow or neutral. Yellow undertones are the most common, pink are the rarest. It’s actually very hard to tell which undertone you are, so the best way to find out is simply trial and error. Test different foundations, the one that makes your skin bright and glowing is the one for you. A couple of good tricks though, are, if you tan well, you are likely to be warm, if you easily burn in the sun, you are likely to be cool (either way, wear an SPF!). As well as the gold/silver test. If you feel you suit silver more than gold, you’re probably cool and vice versa. If none of these are really you, then you’re possibly neutral.
Most shades of foundation will have a cool and a warm counter part. Bare minerals is great for working this out as it’s clearly labeled on the counter. Illamasqua are also good for this! They will have two or three shades with different undertones, for example, with their skin base foundation, shade 3.5 is pink undertone (cool) shade 4 is a yellow undertone (warm) and shade 4.5 is a yellow olive undertone (neutral).
Wearing a cool tone if you’re warm based will instantly give you an over-all ashy look, which will make your skin look dull and tired. Try the new Pantone colour IQ in Sephora stores to get the right shade and tone for you from hundreds of formulas!
Visible powder is a well-documented error in the makeup world. I’m sure you’ve all seen the pictures of celebs with powdery patches all over their faces. This is always due to translucent powder being applied in the wrong way. There are two types of translucent or setting powder, loose and compact. Loose powder should be applied with a large, fluffy brush, preferably a stipple brush like MAC 187 duo fibre or Sephora pro stippling brush #44. Fluffy, airy brushes like this buff the powder equally across the skin, which ensures an even finish with no large patches. A compact can be applied with a powder puff. They usually come with a puff, but it’s best to get a separate one as they’re usually a lot softer. You can pick them up from boots and even Carrefour in the beauty sections for around 10 dirhams. Smooth a tiny bit of the powder onto the puff and pat on gently to the skin. They key to both types of powder, is to apply little by little, ensuring it’s well blended at you go. Too much powder can make you look dry and cakey.
Conforming to trends that don’t suit you is a big no no. There is a huge difference between beauty makeup, fashion makeup, TV makeup ect. The important part is finding the right look for you. Green eyeshadow was a trend when I was younger, but having brown eyes and brown hair, I was more forest than flawless. If you don’t suit a purple lip or a heavy winged eyeliner, then don’t wear it. Simple. You can, though, adapt trends to suit you. For example, shiny skin has been seen across the runway for SS15. In reality, this probably won’t look great, but you can incorporate it into your usual makeup with a bit of highlighter mixed in to your foundation for an extra glow. Try NARS illuminator, which is a liquid highlighter and comes in 5 different shades. Copacabana (light) and Laguna (golden) are ideal for highlighting. I’m all for experimenting and wearing different looks, just make sure not to end up with panda eyes and purple lips because Cara Deleveigne had smoky eyes and Kendall Jenner wore a berry gloss! Your daily makeup should enhance your natural beauty, not mask it.
Extra tips and tricks
• Dust bronzer across the areas that the sun is likely to hit. Think of a ‘3’ starting at your forehead, across you cheekbone, and a tiny bit on your jaw and nose. Don’t smother it over your whole face or you’ll look look flat and fake.
• To avoid clumpy mascara, don’t pump the wand into the tube, twist it instead! This stops excess air getting into the tube and drying you mascara out too quickly. Replace mascaras every two months or so.
• Blend! Blusher, bronzer, eyeshadow… it all needs to be blended to look flawless. Soft, fluffy brushes give the most perfect results.
• Clashing colours. Whilst this can look cool on the catwalk, your daily makeup should really be more subtle. When wearing a red lip, don’t use a pink blush. When wearing coloured eyeshadow, steer clear of bold lipstick!
• Keep your teeth lipstick free by blotting with a bit of tissue between coats!